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History of Surrey

British and Roman Surrey

Before Roman times the area today known as Surrey was very probably governed by the Atrebates tribe centred at Calleva in the modern county of Hampshire. They were known to have controlled the southern bank of the Thames from Roman documents describing the nature of tribal relations between them and the powerful Catuvellauni on the north banks. In about 42AD King Cynfelin ap Tegfan of the Catuvellauni died and war broke out between his sons and between King Verica of the Atrebates. The Catuvellauni invaded the Atrebatean lands, probably crossing the River Thames near modern Staines where the river could be forded. The Atrebates were defeated in the conflict, their capital captured and their lands made subject to the Catuvellauni now led by Togodumnus ruling from Camulodunum. Verica fled to Gaul and appealed for Roman aid. The Atrebates were allies with Rome during their invasion of Britain in 43AD. The territory of Surrey was traversed by Stone Street and Ermine Street and other less well known Roman roads.

After the Romans left Britain in c.410AD the territory of modern Surrey was officialy part of Britannia Prima but was probably ruled by the successor realm of the Atrebates tribe. It has long been speculated that Guildford may have been the Astolat of Arthurian renown, however the legendary city is more likely to have been Calleva (modern day Silchester), the capital of the Atrebates, which resisted the Anglo-Saxons for many years.

The Saxon Tribes and the Sub-Kingdom

From around 480AD Saxons from the south and Jutes from east invaded and began settling in the area and establishing a sub-kingdom probably with Middle Saxon overlords. At this time the area was sparsely populated and almost entirely forested. There is a local truce recorded in c.500 (possibly as a result of the Battle of Badon Hill and only north and east Surrey were retained by the Anglo-Saxons. From c.550AD the westward expansion in to British territory continues with some local British communities becoming marooned within the confines of Saxon Surrey, probably around Walton-on-Thames. From 568 the eastern border of Surrey and Kent is agreed and marked by a ditch. Local tribes named Æschingas, Godhelmingas (around Godalming), Tetingas (around Tooting), Woccingas (between Woking and Wokingham), Basingas (the Blackwater Valley) and Sonningas (around Sonning) are known to have existed.

In 661 the sub-kingdom takes Mercia as its overlord. In 675 Surrey became one of the last portions of England to convert when it's sub-King Friþuwald and his son were baptised. The name of the area at this time is recorded as Sudergeona or "southern region". In 685 Surrey changes allegiance and takes Wessex as it's overlord. In 690 the western border of Surrey is settled with Wessex and the tribal territory of the Sonningas becomes part of Berkshire and the Basingas became part of Hampshire. In 705 Surrey is transferred from the Middle Saxon diocese of London to the West Saxon diocese of Winchester. After 771 Surrey comes under the rule of Offa of Mercia and is so until 823 when Surrey reverts to Wessex and so remains. Some historians have also speculated that the Nox gaga and the Oht gaga tribes listed in the Mercian Tribal Hidage refers to two distinct groups living in Surrey. They were valued together at 7,000 hides

Medieval Surrey

Hundreds of Surrey c.825 - 1889After the Norman Conquest, William I gave the county to William de Warenne, and gave to him and his descendants the title of Earl. The chief subsequent event connected with it was the signing of the great charter at Runnymede, and other public events were mostly intertwined with the history of the metropolis. However, Guildford Castle was captured by forces supporting the Dauphin of France in 1216, and in June 1497 the county was overrun by as many as 15,000 Cornish rebels heading for London. This would have been the first Brythonic army to move through Surrey for nearly 900 years. There was a brief battle just outside Guildford at Gil Down before the Cornish rebels marched north east through Banstead and right across Wallington and Brixton Hundreds as far as Blackheath in Kent where they were eventually routed by an English army.

Specimens of monastic buildings of early English date occur in Waverley Abbey and Newark Priory. These were both destroyed during the reformation. From the Saxon period up until Victorian times Surrey was divided into the 14 hundreds of Blackheath, Brixton, Copthorne, Effingham Half-Hundred, Elmbridge, Farnham, Godalming, Godley, Kingston, Reigate, Tandridge, Wallington, Woking and Wotton.

Modern History

The modern county of Surrey was formed in 1889 when the Provisional Surrey County Council first met. At this time, until future local government reorganisation, it comprised of Lord Lieutenant and custos, a High Sheriff, and a county council consisting of 19 aldermen and 57 councillors. This assumed the responsibilities of the now defunct Shire Court and Hundred Courts. The new county of Surrey was reduced in size with the loss of areas in the north-east bordering the City of London which became boroughs of the new London County Council and are today the London Boroughs of Lambeth, Southwark and Wandsworth.

Further reforms in local government in 1965 further changed the borders of the county. The area of the boroughs of Croydon, Kingston, Merton, Richmond and Sutton were made part of Greater London, and Spelthorne was acquired from Middlesex.

The 1974 local government reforms caused Gatwick Airport and some surrounding land to be transferred to West Sussex. Under the Local Government Act 1972 Horley and Charlwood were transferred, however fierce local opposition led to a reversal of this under the Charlwood and Horley Act 1974.

Places of interest

National Trust properties

Box Hill just north of Dorking is woodland and chalk downland with superb views from the top of the hill. The eminent British myrmecologist and coleopterist Horace Donisthorpe frequented this location during his studies of British ants.

Clandon Park, an 18th century Palladian mansion in West Clandon to the east of Guildford. The house, which holds interesting collections, and the gardens are both attractive.

Claremont Landscape Garden, south of Esher. The gardens date from 1715,

Dapdune Wharf on the River Wey in Guildford is home to a restored Wey barge, the Reliance.

Devil's Punch Bowl at Hindhead is another common with fine views and walks.

Frensham Common home to a variety of plant, animal and birdlife. Scenic with pleasant walks (and horse rides). Frensham Great Pond houses assorted sailing activities whilst Frensham Little Pond provides family picnicing spots.

Hatchlands Park in East Clandon, east of Guildford, was built in 1758 with Robert Adam interiors and a fine keyboard collection.

Holmbury St Mary is a charming village in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, close to the Greensand Way and North Downs Way. It was developed in the 19th century and still has a mainly Victorian character as on the whole no new building is allowed. The youth hostel, constructed in the village in 1935, was the first purpose-built by the Youth Hostels Association.

Leith Hill to the south west of Dorking is the highest point in south-east England. Woods, Rhodedendrons and magnificent views from the many walks.

Oakhurst Cottage in Hambledon near Godalming is a restored 16th century worker's home.

Polesden Lacey south of Great Bookham is a Regency villa with extensive grounds. Each summer open air theatre is presented in the grounds.

River Wey & Godalming Navigations from Godalming to the Thames at Weybridge. Interesting scenery, well kept locks and well maintained towpaths make for pleasant walks.

Runnymede at Egham is the site of the signing of the Magna Carta in 1215. Attractive meadows and woodland, part of which are a Site of Special Scientific Interest.

Shalford Mill is an 18th century water-mill on the River Tillingbourne.

Winkworth Arboretum south east of Godalming was created in the 20th century with impressive flowers in the spring and magnificent colours in the autumn.

Witley Common is heathland south of Godalming.

Wotton Wotton House was the family seat of John Evelyn, the 17th-century diarist and horticulturist.

Other places of interest

Guildford Cathedral is a post-war cathedral built from bricks made from the clay hill on which it stands.

Waverley Abbey.

Surrey Hills AONB

Royal Earlswood Hospital is an early psychiatric hospital which housed the autistic savant James Henry Pullen and The Queen Mother's two nieces: Nerissa Bowes-Lyon and Katherine Bowes-Lyon.

Royal Horticultural Society Garden, Wisley.

Brooklands Museum